SKU: 1272647384

Valcourt Lafayette II Wood Burning Fireplace

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Description

Valcourt Lafayette II Wood Burning FireplaceValcourt Lafayette II Wood Burning Fireplace Like the great French general, the Valcourt team has been able to use its tactical skills to upgrade this non catalytic unit, so that it perfectly combines the new heating technology with all its elegance. Customize your fireplace: five faceplate louvers as well as black or brushed nickel door overlays are available to enhance your decor. In addition to offering a distinctive look, the appliance follows the

Valcourt Lafayette II Wood Burning Fireplace

Like the great French general, the Valcourt team has been able to use its tactical skills to upgrade this non-catalytic unit, so that it perfectly combines the new heating technology with all its elegance.

Customize your fireplace: five faceplate louvers as well as black or brushed nickel door overlays are available to enhance your decor. In addition to offering a distinctive look, the appliance follows the most restrictive EPA regulations, making it the fireplace of choice for those who want to use wood as a renewable and clean source of heat.

Features

  • Combustion Technology: Non-catalytic

  • High-Efficiency Certified Appliance: Yes, EPA 2020 approved

  • Maximum Log Length: 20"

  • Log Positioning: Loading over width

  • Chimney Diameter: 6"

  • Flue Outlet Diameter: 6"

  • Type of Chimney: CAN/ULC S629, UL 103 HT (2100 °F)

  • Minimum Chimney Height: 15 feet

  • Baffle Type: C-Cast or equivalent

  • Approved for Mobile Home Installation: No

  • Shipping Weight: 493 lb (224 kg)

  • Door Type: Single, glass with steel frame

  • Glass Type: Ceramic glass

  • Glass Surface Dimensions (W x H): 24 3/8" x 12 5/8"

  • Glass Air-Wash System: Yes

  • Premium Quality Blower Included: 176 CFM

  • Overall Dimensions (H x W x D): 40 5/8" x 36 3/4" x 28 3/8"

  • Door Opening Dimensions (H x W): 10 1/2" x 25 3/8"

  • Firebox Dimensions (H x W x D): 12 1/8" x 20 3/8" x 12 7/8"

  • Moulded Refractory Bricks: Yes

  • Stainless-Steel Secondary-Air System: Yes, improves gas combustion

  • USA Standard (Emissions): EPA

  • Canadian Standard (Emissions): CSA B415.1-10

  • USA Standard (Safety): UL 127

  • Canadian Standard (Safety): ULC-S610

  • Tested and Listed As Per Applicable Standards: By an accredited laboratory (CAN/USA)

  • Warranty: Limited lifetime

Specifications

Appliance Performance

  • Fuel Type: Dry cordwood (16" recommended)

  • Recommended Heating Area: 750 – 2,200 ft²

  • Overall Firebox Volume: 2.5 ft³

  • EPA Loading Volume: 1.94 ft³

  • Maximum Burn Time: 8 hours

  • Maximum Heat Output (Dry Cordwood): 80,000 BTU/h (23.4 kW)

  • Overall Heat Output Rate: 12,700 BTU/h (3.72 kW) to 60,700 BTU/h (17.79 kW)

  • Average Overall Efficiency (Dry Cordwood): 64% (HHV), 68% (LHV)

  • Optimum Overall Efficiency: 70%

  • Optimum Heat Transfer Efficiency: 68%

  • Average Particulate Emissions Rate: 1.2 g/h

  • Average CO Emissions: 98 g/h

Note:

  1. Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume, maximum burn time and maximum heat output.
  2. Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft,heat loss factors, climate, fuel type and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a power failure.
  3. The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft³ and 20 lb/ft³ and reloading intervals ranging from 60 to 120 minutes. Other performances are based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard without any reloading between start and finish. The specified loading density varies between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft³. The moisture content is between 19% and 25%.
  4. As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.
  5. Higher Heating Value of the fuel.
  6. Lower Heating Value of the fuel.
  7. Performances based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard at 7 lb/ft³ and with a moisture content between 19% and 25%.
  8. Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV).
  9. The optimum heat transfer efficiency is for the low burn rate (using HHV) and represents the appliance’s ability to convert the energy contained in the wood logs into energy transferred to the room in the form of heat and does not take into account the chemical losses during combustion.
  10. This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency.
  11. Carbon monoxyde.

Approved Chimney Types

AC Triple Wall

  • American Metal – HSS, 6" (15 cm)

  • American Metal – HS, 6" (15 cm)

  • DuraVent – DuraPlus, 6" (15 cm)

1" Solid Pack

  • DuraVent – DuraTech, 6" (15 cm)

  • DuraVent – DuraTech Canada (DTC), 6" (15 cm)

  • Metal Fab – Temp Guard, 6" (15 cm)

  • Olympia Chimney – Champion Chimney System, 6" (15 cm)

  • Olympia Chimney – Rockford Chimney Systems, 6" (15 cm)

  • Olympia Chimney / SBI Venting Division – Ventis, 6" (15 cm)

  • SBI Venting Division – Nexvent, 6" (15 cm)

2" Solid Pack

  • DuraVent – DuraPlus HTC, 6" (15 cm)

  • DuraVent – DuraTech Premium, 6" (15 cm)

  • Security Chimney – S-2100+, 6" (15 cm)

  • Selkirk – CF Sentinel (CF), 6" (15 cm)

  • Selkirk – Super Pro 2100 (ALT), 6" (15 cm)

  • Selkirk – Super Vent 2100 (JM), 6" (15 cm)

Note: Specific components may be required depending on the chimney manufacturer.

Minimum Clearances to Combustibles

(Data expressed in inches. 1 inch = 25.4 mm)

  • Clearance – Top (from platform to top of unit):
    • Canada: 80"
    • United States: 80"

  • Clearance – Combustible Side Mantle to Unit:
    • Canada: 8"
    • United States: 8"

  • Clearance – Combustible Side Wall to Unit:
    • Canada: 13"
    • United States: 13"

  • Clearance – From Shelf to Base of Fireplace:
    • Canada: 58"
    • United States: 58"

Note: 

  • The information given on the certification label affixed to the appliance always overrides the information published in any other media (owner's manual, catalogues, flyers, magazines and/or web sites).
  • Some appliances have been tested with a low ceiling. Before setting up your unit, refer to the installation manual.

Product Video

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Options and SKU Numbers

  • Urban Style Faceplate Louver / Black Door Overlay - FP10R+VA10FA07+VA10L08+VA10RE07
  • Urban Style Faceplate Louver / Brushed Nickel Door Overlay - FP10R+VA10FA07+VA10L08+VA10RE40
  • Classic Style Faceplate Louver / Black Door Overlay - FP10R+VA10FA07+VA10L06+VA10RE07
  • Classic Style Faceplate Louver / Brushed Nickel Door Overlay - FP10R+VA10FA07+VA10L06+VA10RE40
  • Arabesque Style Faceplate Louver / Black Door Overlay - FP10R+VA10FA07+VA10L07+VA10RE07
  • Arabesque Style Faceplate Louver / Brushed Nickel Door Overlay - FP10R+VA10FA07+VA10L07+VA10RE40
  • Mission Style Faceplate Louver / Black Door Overlay - FP10R+VA10FA07+VA10L09+VA10RE07
  • Mission Style Faceplate Louver / Brushed Nickel Door Overlay - FP10R+VA10FA07+VA10L09+VA10RE40
  • Crown Style Faceplate Louver / Black Door Overlay - FP10R+VA10FA07+VA10L10+VA10RE07
  • Crown Style Faceplate Louver / Brushed Nickel Door Overlay - FP10R+VA10FA07+VA10L10+VA10RE40

Frequently Asked Questions?

Do I need an EPA certified or CSAB415.1-10 certified heater?

  • You first have to identify what your needs are. If you are looking for ambiance, a temporary heat source in a cottage or a camp, or a simple back-up heat source in case of power failure, you do not necessarily need to invest more money in order to buy an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified wood heater. However, if your goal is to heat on a regular basis, the extra dollars will prove to be a good investment. Furthermore, it must be noted that certified heaters release up to 90% less particles into the atmosphere, which makes wood a renewable and clean source of heat. As a result, if the style and size of the heater you are looking for is available in a certified version, it is highly recommended that you invest in this advanced combustion technology. You will help the environment and reduce your wood consumption by up to 30%.
  • NOTE: If you live in the United Sates, British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick or Newfoundland, EPA certified wood heaters are mandatory. Exceptions apply for certain categories of products, such as decorative fireplaces. Certain municipalities may also have by-laws that require the installation of an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 wood heater, even though the province does not have an official regulation on wood heating. It must also be noted that in Canada, the CSAB415.1-10 Standard is equivalent to the EPA Standard. A wood heater that meets this Standard will generally comply with the regulation in place.

How do I determine the size of heater I need and where should I install it?

  • Before answering this question, it is very important that you clearly identify what your needs are. Some people will buy a heater simply to enhance the ambiance of a room, while others will buy a heater as their main source of heat. There is no good or bad reason for buying a wood-heat system. If you simply want to enhance the ambiance of a room, most small to medium size heaters will suit your needs. Simply chose the style you like best, and put the unit in the room where you spend the most time. The heat and look of a glowing fire will create an atmosphere of warmth and coziness.
  • If your primary need is to heat, you must verify the heating capacity of your heater based on the technical data provided by the manufacturer. For instance, if you want to heat an 800-square-foot area on one floor, you need to buy a heater with a minimum capacity of 800 sq. ft.
  • If you need to heat more than one floor, keep in mind that heat rises. Therefore, a heater located in your basement will help you heat the main floor as well. However, the contrary is not true; a heater located on the main floor (ground floor) will not heat the basement. Keep in mind also that the more divisions there are in the house, the harder it will be to distribute the heat evenly.
  • If you need to heat two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor. Then, add 50% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a wood-heating system in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,200 sq.ft. (800 + 400 = 1,200.
  • If you need to heat more than two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor (where the wood-heating system is located). Then, add 50% of the surface of the middle floor, and 25% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a heater in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft. (800+400+200= 1,400). Consult the drawing below. It will help you understand the explanations provided in this section.
  • REMEMBER: We are talking about "zone" heating, not central heating. The room where the heater is located and the rooms directly above it will always reach higher temperatures than the rooms distant from the unit. If you want an even temperature throughout the house, you need to consider a central heating system, such as a warm air wood furnace. Furthermore, you must keep in mind that the size of the heater you need may vary based on the insulation of your house, its exposure to wind, and the number of windows. It will always be prudent to buy a heater with a capacity that is slightly higher than the minimum capacity that you need. For instance, if you need a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft., it will be more prudent to buy a heater with a capacity of 1,600 sq.ft., if not 1,800 sq.ft. There are three main advantages in buying a larger appliance: the increased heating capacity, the ease of loading more and larger logs (as a result of the greater firebox volume), and the increased combustion time (given the higher loading capacity).
  • The drawing above gives an example of the minimum heating capacity required for a wood-heating system installed in a house with three floors of 800 sq.ft. each. We assume that the house is well insulated and that air can circulate between each floor through an open stairway and/or floor traps.

Why is the efficiency as per the EPA’s test data smaller than the publicized optimum efficiency?

  • EPA refers to the CSAB415.1-10 standard for the calculation of the appliance’s efficiency. The efficiency reported as per EPA’s directives consists of an average between four different burn rates, ranging from the lowest burn rate (air intake completely closed) to the highest burn rate (air intake completely open). The optimum efficiency that we publicize is the efficiency obtained according to the same test data, but for the low burn rate only. This efficiency is more realistic for a majority of users whose heating needs require that the unit be used to maximize burn times.

Does my heater qualify under the LEED program?

  • The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System™ encourages and accelerates global adoption of sustainable green building and development practices through the creation and implementation of universally understood and accepted tools and performance criteria. LEED is a third-party certification program and an internationally accepted benchmark for the design, construction and operation of high performance green buildings. It provides building owners and operators the tools they need to have an immediate and measurable impact on their buildings’ performance.
  • The Canadian Green Building Council (CGBC) certifies LEED projects. The Certification is based on the total point score achieved, following an independent review and an audit of selected Credits. With four possible levels of certification (certified, silver, gold and platinum), LEED® is flexible enough to accommodate a wide range of green building strategies that best fit the constraints and goals of particular projects. The Canadian rating systems are an adaptation of the US Green Building Council's (USGBC) LEED Green Building Rating System, tailored specifically for Canadian climates, construction practices and regulations. The rating systems are adapted to the Canadian market through an inclusive process that engages stakeholders and experts representing the various sectors of the Canadian industry.
  • Wood or pellet stoves, fireplaces, and inserts can qualify under LEED and obtain up to one point provided that they meet the following criteria.

Why does the fire go out when I close the loading door?

  • Possible causes and solutions:
  • 1- The moisture content of your wood is too high.
  • Solution: Make sure you use good, seasoned cord wood. The wood you burn plays an important role in the overall performance of your heater. Your wood should have been properly dried for approximately one year. Storage is also key. Wood that has been cut for one, two or even more years will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions, it may have rotten instead of drying. Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. The wood should be stored in a place where the grass is not too long, and where the wind will be able to circulate between the logs. A 12-inch gap should be kept between the cords. The wood should be placed in the sunniest area and should be protected from the rain and snow on top, but not on the sides. Use a moisture reader to measure the moisture content of your wood. Ideally, it should be below 25%.
  • 2- The air control mechanism is not open enough.
  • Solution: Adjust the air control mechanism in order to keep the flue temperature within the comfort zone (between 250 °F and 475 °F) on your chimney thermometer. The air control mechanism must always be closed gradually. You need to obtain a good bed of red embers and the logs must be completely lit up before you close the air control completely. This can easily take up to one hour.
  • 3- The logs that you are using are too big.
  • Solution: Use smaller pieces of wood and place them to allow proper air circulation between the logs. The same weight of wood cut in many small pieces will produce more heat than fewer, larger logs. Only add big logs when you have a good bed of red embers. Logs with a diameter exceeding 6 inches should always be split. Avoid stacking logs to the top of the firebox.
  • 4- The chimney draft is too weak.
  • Solution #1: In many cases, a weak draft is simply due to insufficient heat in the exhaust system. Build a small, intense fire, and leave the door ajar (never leave the heater unattended). Before inserting larger logs, use dry kindling to obtain a good bed of red embers. Gradually increase the size of the logs. Close the unit’s door when you reach a flue temperature of approximately 475 °F on the chimney thermometer. Leave the air intake fully open for approximately 15 minutes. Then, gradually close the air intake control. Note that there is no danger in letting the temperature inside the flue reach approximately 700 °F during the start-up. This is even favorable in order to properly start your heater. You must, however, avoid maintaining excessive temperatures (above the comfort zone on your thermometer) during a long period of time. Your chimney thermometer should be positioned on the exhaust pipe, approximately 18 inches above the unit.
  • Solution #2: Your heater may not have all the oxygen it needs to allow for a sufficient draft. You first need to ensure that the room where the heater is located is sufficiently large and well ventilated. Open the nearest window by approximately 2 inches. If you notice a significant improvement, it is a sign that the unit needs more oxygen. The room may be too insulated or too small. Without an additional source of oxygen, the draft will remain weak and cause the glass stay dirty.
  • Solution #3: The chimney may be too short. In order to obtain a sufficient draft, your chimney must have a minimum height. Twelve feet (from the heater to the chimney cap outside the house) is a minimum. A height of 15 feet or higher is ideal.
  • Solution #4: Your exhaust system may be too tortuous or may lack a sufficiently steep slope. Ideally, your exhaust system should not have more than one 90° elbow. Furthermore, all horizontal sections should be as short as possible and have a minimum slope of 1/4" per foot.
  • Solution #5: Your exhaust system may be oversized. When your chimney is oversized, the volume of air that needs to be warmed-up is larger. It is therefore difficult to reach temperatures that will allow for a sufficient draft. Most advanced combustion systems (those certified to EPA/CSAB415.1-10) have a 6" flue outlet (152 mm). If your exhaust system does not have a 6" diameter, a solution is to insert a stainless liner with a 6" diameter inside the exhaust system.

Why is the BTU according to EPA test data smaller than the one advertised?

  • You will notice a difference between the BTU output as per the EPA’s test data and what is advertised on our web site and/or product literature. The maximum BTU output we advertise is what will be obtained with a full load of seasoned cordwood inserted inside the firebox. The EPA output, on the other hand, is what has been obtained during emissions testing. The EPA test procedure requires that a special type of wood is used and positioned inside the firebox in a manner that does not represent the way the firebox volume would normally be utilized using seasoned cordwood. The EPA test load is typically much smaller. Hence, the BTU as per the EPA’s test data is reduced. The BTU output that should be considered by a normal user is the one we advertise for seasoned cordwood.

What burn time will I get from my wood heater?

  • The combustion time for an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified, non-catalytic wood appliance depends on many factors, the most important being the size of its firebox. Heaters with a 2.0 cubic foot firebox or more will normally have longer burn-times. From 6 to 8 hours is about the burn time you will get. Some companies will advertise longer burn times, but be careful, this calculation is made from the time you light the fire to the time there is absolutely no combustible left into the firebox. No matter what the appliance model is, the maximum BTU output will be obtained over approximately 33% of the total burn cycle. This represents 2 to 3 hours for a medium-size stove. So realistically, you will have to reload the unit every 3 or 4 hours in order to get the maximum heat out of your appliance when you are home. If you don’t reload the heater and let it burn the remaining fuel, your output will slowly decrease until there is no useful heat left to produce (we call this the “tail end” of the combustion cycle). This “tail end” will provide heat for another 4 to 5 hours. So if you are looking for a 6 to 8-hour burn time, make sure you choose an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified wood heater with a BTU output (using cordwood) of 60,000 BTU or more. Appliances with that kind of output all have fairly large fireboxes. If you are going to rely mostly on wood for heating and your house has more than 2,000 square feet, do not hesitate to choose one of our larger units (>85,000 BTU). Those appliances will have a burn time of approximately 8 to 10 hours.

Do I need to install a fresh air intake on my wood heater?

  • A fresh air intake is not mandatory for your wood heater, unless the unit is installed in a mobile home or if the local building code or the manufacturer requires it. If the heater is installed in an open room, in a house that is more or less air-tight, combustion air will normally be easily replaced. In this case, the installation of a fresh air intake is not required. It must, however, be noted that a fresh air intake, even if it is not mandatory, will always provide the advantage of better balancing the house with regards to combustion air. If the house has a powerful mechanical exhaust system that may be used while the heater is burning (ex: range hood), a fresh-air intake will be required.

How much heat transfer should I get from my fireplace using a forced air kit?

  • Several factors can affect the amount of heat transferred to your rooms through a forced air option. The length of the system, the deviations and the insulation of the conduits can have a major impact. It is recommended to use a short system with few deviations. The heat transfer will be optimized when your fireplace is hot. Heat transfer too soon when the fireplace has not reached its optimum combustion temperature can cool the combustion chamber too quickly and cause poor combustion. An overpowered fan can also lead to the same negative effects. The ideal situation is a lower but constant air flow when the fireplace is hot. We can therefore expect to transfer at least 25% of the heat from the appliance to other rooms. It should be noted that the systems sold with your fireplace have been tested for safety by the appliance manufacturer. If you do not use the original system supplied by the manufacturer, you expose yourself to a risk of fire. If in doubt, consult a professional installer.
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SKU: 1272647384

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4.1 ★★★★★
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E
Verified Purchase
EKCG
Lexington, US
★★★★★ 5
Best DIY Bookshelf We've Gotten
Color: Classic Cherry, Size: L:29.80" x W:13.09" x H:71.26"
Just finished putting this together and we're fully impressed. The product itself is exactly what it says on the tin, looks just like the photos. It takes a little bit of extra effort from your standard DIY bookshelf just because it has some extra decorative pieces, but we think it's worth it and that's one of the reasons we picked it out. Did have a MINOR bit of confusion since some of the decorative pieces weren't labeled, but they were easy to identify with the instruction manual. Which, let me just say, this is clearly a company who has seen the problems in the DIY furniture industry and has actually taken HUGE strides to make the whole experience easier on the customer and make the product sturdier. There are no bamboo pegs that might not even fit into their assigned holes, no weird turn-to-lock things that may are may not be tight enough to not unlock themselves, no ten different pieces of tiny hardware that barely look different from each other, and NO ALLEN WRENCHES. The entire piece can be put together with a regular screwdriver and a hammer (or just the screwdriver if you can't find the hammer and are determined enough, since you only need the hammer to tack on the cardboard backing); and because the structure's entirely put together with screws and because it's actually separated into two pieces, it makes the entire structure way more stable than your standard DIY bookshelf. The instruction manual is also not only EXCEEDINGLY, PAINSTAKINGLY clear about which way each piece should be facing and what hole you should be screwing it into, spelling it out for you when they can't just point it out on the diagram, or sometimes even doing both; it also comes with a little pre-measured spacer that you can cut right out of it to help you center the moldings on the shelves just right. And just as the icing on the cake, they also include a marker in the color of the laminate to fill in accidental scratches. We are extremely happy with this bookcase, and we'll be looking at Sauder products for future DIY furniture needs.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on January 8, 2017
A
Verified Purchase
Amazon Customer
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 1
To be fair this is the worst side the other side is about an eighth of ...
Color: Classic Cherry, Size: L:29.80" x W:13.09" x H:71.26", Color: Classic Cherry, Size: L:29.80" x W:13.09" x H:71.26"
I used to work at big box store some twenty years ago and there were two selling points for Sauder furniture at the time. The furniture was 3/4 inch particle board and ease of construction. Well neither of those are the case any longer. I am putting this together and the L brackets that Sauder provides are of the adjustable variety. This lets one slide the two wooden pieces so to obtain a match on their edges. Well in theory, in reality one cannot slide them far enough so one has a 1/4 inch mismatched edge. On part H which is a horizontal trim piece. It is not long enough to cover the trim pieces edges that are below it in the vertical. Those edges are raw wood, but do not worry Sauder has been kind enough to include a brown magic marker so I will be able to cover up that raw wood. I included a photo of one side. To be fair this is the worst side the other side is about an eighth of an inch. And to be even more fair, there should not be any raw wood showing. It is not very sturdy either, the only thing that makes it from really wobbling is the fiber board backing at the rear of the bookcase. My expectations when I bought this piece of furniture was not that great. I wanted to buy a piece of furniture that was fairly easy to put together. I also wanted a piece of furniture that looked okay. This piece of furniture achieved neither one, I would have been better off going to a second hand furniture store and buying a bookcase there. Even if I had to refinish the second hand bookcase it would of been less hassle then this thing. Oh, Sauder I do not want to see a response saying please contact us at 1-800 whatever. When do most people put this furniture together? I would hazard to guess the weekend. When is Sauder customer service open? I can tell you it is not the weekend. If you are thinking of buying this, I would think twice.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 4, 2017
A
Verified Purchase
Amazon Customer
Port Orchard, US
★★★★★ 5
Perfect buy
Color: Classic Cherry, Size: L:29.80" x W:12.99" x H:71.26"
I absolutely love this bookcase. It’s stable. It has the perfect color. It’s the perfect height not too tall, but definitely not short. And if it’s perfectly in the corner of my room, the only issue I had with this is the assembly process. Definitely don’t recommend you assembling it on your own. Definitely having someone there to help you assemble it. It’s definitely something I would do. It stores a lot of books, but definitely follow the weight capacity. I didn’t follow the weight capacity and now I have slightly bent shelves. It has good stability.The value is fair for how long it lasts because I still haven’t and it’s still standing.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 25, 2026
N
Verified Purchase
NYC
Alexandria, US
★★★★★ 3
Difficult to assemble, low quality, but looks nice
Color: Classic Cherry, Size: L:29.80" x W:13.09" x H:71.26"
It looks nice when finished, but it's a major pain to put together. I've assembled a lot of DIY furniture over the years, but this was one of the more frustrating ones, mainly because of the unnecessarily difficult way the finishing slats need to be attached. Also the frame was very unstable during assembly. This bookcase is also not exactly sturdy even when finished. It's a low-quality product in all respects, really, except the nice way it looks. Value for money? meh. Color is nice.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 26, 2026
C
Verified Purchase
Cynthia Foster
Omaha, US
★★★★★ 5
Excellent Customer Service. Follow instructions.
Color: Classic Cherry, Size: L:29.80" x W:13.09" x H:71.26"
I LOVE the color of this bookcase. The bookcases at the big chain store generally cost around $100, so this is about what I was expecting. It's a nicer quality with thicker shelves than the big chain store bookshelves and I really wanted the cherry color, which, on this bookcase, is gorgeous. It was a bit difficult to assemble only because I asked for help from a male friend who insisted that we skip through the directions. We ended up getting a screw caught between two beams because he didn't want to sort out the screws like I ALWAYS do before assembling any furniture. Note: just breathe, relax and take your time and follow the directions, and if you ask for help from someone, give them a sedative, like a big dose of kava or something because it's going to take several hours. Once it's finished, though, it's really lovely. I filled it with books and so far, it's been fine. It is particle board with a finish, so if you scratch it, it's going to show. But, it comes with a brown color-coordinated marker so you can cover up minor scratches or flaws in the finish. I was a little surprised that the top of the bookcase is unfinished, but maybe a lot of bookcases are not nowadays. I wouldn't put it in a location where the top of it shows - like next to a staircase. The backboard is cardboard folded in half with the same cherry finish, which for me really wasn't an issue because I always fill my bookcases completely with books so the back doesn't really show. There are weight restrictions for each shelf, so make sure you pay attention to those - some shelves hold more weight than others. I plan to assemble the second one by myself now that I understand what's involved. I have to give five stars because customer service was so amazing. I didn't open the second bookcase for a long time, but despite the time that had passed, they still replaced a damaged beam very quickly, and even reshipped the beam a second time because I had given the wrong address. That was really amazing! Never had such a good experience with customer service before.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 25, 2014

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Bulk Pansy Seeds Frizzle Sizzle Burgundy 1,000 Bulk Flower Seeds
60.00
kleiner Brachiosaurus
15.95
SunSugar Hybrid Tomato Orange Cherry Tomato 100 Seeds
14.00
Geheimnisse der Tiefe
15.95
Blumenfeld
15.95